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By David Haines

Tonight’s dinner at Ze Café was interesting. What could have been a somewhat low-key experience was anything but that. I went with my friend Rosa. She’s never boring. She’s the life of the party, and when nothing’s going on, she creates the fun. She’s captivating and beautiful, witty and charming, elegant and sweet; but she’s also a trouble maker – all at the same time.

As we walked in, we were taken aback by the simple beauty of the restaurant. So delicately appointed – a skylight in the center of the room, rustic walls, tables, and floors with flowers and plants all around. It’s a very small and intimate space, and it’s very inviting. It was a little empty upon our arrival, so this was Rosa’s signal to have a little fun with the wait staff.

She started by asking the waiter his wine recommendations. When she saw the prices, she asked for a discount. He smiled with shy curiosity. He didn’t know what to think. Was she serious? After Rosa asked if there was anything he could do, he smiled with a resigned affirmation of the fact that he couldn’t give a discount. But he could let her try the two wines she was considering. Sauvignon blanc was Rosa’s choice over the Sancerre.

After hearing the specials of the evening, we made our choices. As her appetizer, Rosa ordered the jumbo lump crab brandade on toasted garlic baguette slices and roasted sea bass with mild mushrooms, baby carrots, and tatsoi as her entree. I chose the poached Mayan shrimp with avocado, horseradish, garlic chips, and lemon as an appetizer, and for my entrée I chose the gnocchi special of the evening.

While waiting for our appetizers to arrive, Rosa asked our waiter why he spent so much time at another table while we went wanting for bread. She was teasing, but she meant it. He laughed and smiled, and then returned quickly with the bread and olive oil. I didn’t care for the olive bread, and my appetizer was bland. The avocado “dip” was unimpressive, and the poached prawns were almost tasteless. Rosa’s jumbo lump crab brandade was somewhat good, however. It wasn’t that tasty, but it was good.

By the time our entrees had arrived, the restaurant was filling up and becoming more fun. The music had faded, but the vibe had begun to build. Rosa’s sea bass was very good. It was well cooked and beautifully plated. My gnocchi was so so. It looked good, but there wasn’t a lot of taste.

For dessert, we each had pie. Rosa had the apple caramel with vanilla ice cream, and I had the mixed berry a la mode. I mainly tasted blueberries and black berries, but there could have been some raspberries in there. Both pies were very good, but Rosa’s was better.

Overall, we had a good time. I would go back, but maybe not to eat much. Or maybe, I’d just get everything Rosa ordered. She made all the better choices. And for the record — Rosa didn’t get a discount, but our waiter poured us each a glass of wine on the house, and someone else on staff brought us each some limoncello as an aperitif, which proves yet again — Rosa’s charms are irresistible.

Ze Cafe
398 E 52 Street
New York, NY 10022
212-758-1944